Ever gotten so lost in a moment that you forget to take more photos?
That’s exactly what happened during our recent adventure through Portugal with my mom and daughter.
While Lisbon charmed us with its tiled facades and perfect pastéis de nata (our two-bedroom haven at The Lumiares in Bairro Alto was the ideal home base), it was the Douro Valley that truly stole my heart.
Our day began with a private pickup at our hotel (a gem we loved, Torel 1884 in Porto) for the 90-minute drive to Pinhão, where the Douro River welcomed us for a serene 45-minute boat ride.
The terraced vineyards climbing impossibly steep hills were truly amazing. It had been raining the day before, but lucky for us, the sky was clear and weather perfectly calm for the ride on the river.
Our first stop was Quinta do Cume, a small family-run winery owned by a local physician. Unlike the massive commercial operations, this intimate experience felt like being welcomed into someone’s home – because it literally was. The passion behind each bottle was palpable as we tasted wines that perfectly captured the region’s spirit. And, being from the Bay Area with Napa Valley a stone’s throw away, the quality of the wine was remarkable.
The magic truly happened at lunch, though. At a family-owned restaurant overlooking the valley, our guide Alex shared stories of growing up in Portugal and how he’s evolving his wine tours as more sophisticated travelers discover the region. It was a treat to share a meal with him, and was also a chance to connect across three generations while learning from a local, Portugese perspective.
As Anthony Bourdain always said, sharing a meal is the surest path to understanding a place and its people.
Between bites of peri peri chicken and sips of local wine, we learned about daily life, how tourism is changing the valley, and gained insights no guidebook could offer.
Our final stop was Quinta dos Castellares, another family-run winery housed in a centuries-old building. Standing on the terrace overlooking endless rows of vineyards while sipping their port, I had that rare travel moment – the one where you’re completely present, not thinking about tomorrow’s plans or your next Instagram post.
If you’re planning your own Portuguese adventure, my biggest tip?
Give yourself more time in the Douro Valley than you think you need. That single day left us all wanting more, and next time I’ll definitely plan an overnight stay at one of the quintas, or the luxurious Six Senses Douro Valley (with perks like priority for room upgrades, daily free breakfast for two, and resort credit are added to the reservation).
Some places don’t just capture your heart – they redefine what you’re capable of feeling. The Douro Valley is definitely one of them.
